Summary
Having acclimatised to Japan with a tranquil week in Fukuoka and a sombre couple of nights in Hiroshima, I was itching for the full force of a Japanese metropolis.
Osaka did not disappoint.
Accommodation
Considering its size and popularity as a tourist destination, accommodation in Osaka was remarkably better value than in Tokyo. Like most cities in Japan, hotels are your best bet, but Airbnb offered more options than smaller cities. It looked like you should be able to get a decent flat for around $1,000 for a month on Airbnb which appeared impossible in Tokyo.
I spent 7 nights at the recently renovated Super Hotel Osaka, a short walk from Awaza metro station. While there's nothing of interest in the immediate vicinity, it's within easy walking distance of the hubs of Umeda and Namba.
I'd wholeheartedly recommend it for a couple of reasons:
- /It has an excellent Japanese onsen (thermal bath) in the basement floor, with segregated spaces for men and women including hot springs, cold plunges and a sauna. It's open until 1 AM, so there's plenty of time to use it after work, providing the perfect antidote for long days of exploring the city on foot.
- It offers exceptional value at £45 per night, ticking many boxes with a room, spa access and a working environment on the ground floor.
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Places to work
Finding a suitable workspace in Osaka is painless. WeWork has three locations in the city, and there are numerous domestic coworking operators spread across all the major hubs.
Chain coffee shops, which are open late into the evening, generally have dedicated working areas suitable for a couple of hours of productivity.
Most hotels also feature some form of workspace in their communal areas, handy for getting things done early or late in the day.
Value
Prices for day-to-day expenses were on par with cities across the rest of the country. Accommodation felt particularly good value considering its status as a big tourist draw compared to Tokyo.
Working hours
Japan observes Japan Standard Time (JST), which is 9 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). However, the time difference reduces to 8 hours during the summer months as Japan does not observe daylight saving time.This large gap in time zones has advantages and disadvantages, but planning a trip during the summer would reduce the likelihood of having to work past midnight to maintain alignment with European schedules.
🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
![The area surrounding Dotonbori becomes alive at night, with numerous brightly lit streets home to countless restaurants and bars for every taste to explore.](https://cdn.prod.website-files.com/6506df699c68b17248f3786e/664e9c65d5fb105b3a6043e7_New%20Project%20(71).jpg)
![The panoramic views from the 27th floor are what set the Namba SkyO WeWork apart from the other two sites in the city.](https://cdn.prod.website-files.com/6506df699c68b17248f3786e/664e9d78a4ac314bd68909e1_New%20Project%20(74).jpg)
![Bento boxes appeared particularly popular in Osaka. During lunchtimes, local vendors sell boxes for hungry office workers to take back. This Fried Chicken box cost only 500 Yen (£2.50).](https://cdn.prod.website-files.com/6506df699c68b17248f3786e/664e9da58333c0b0f97b8cdf_New%20Project%20(72).jpg)
Where to stay
Even though Osaka is a huge city, there are only a couple of core areas where you'd want to stay, at least on an initial visit.
The metro is efficient and inexpensive, so anywhere within a few stops of these areas would be ideal.
Where to work
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WeWork - Namba SkyO
Of the three WeWork sites across the city, this is the one which I'd suggest setting up base in. Set on the 27th floor of the SkyO building, the office provides panoramic north-looking views over the city and proves an inspiring place to work from.
You don't need to acquire a pass from the internal building security and can get a direct lift up from the office floor lobby on the 10th floor. The office is open until 20:00, however, you can get away with working in there up until 21:00 when you'll be mainly mixing with Japanese residents making the most of the free beer.
There are plenty of options for food and drink in the SkyO building itself and the surrounding area. Namba is a lively hub and a great place to explore after you've finished up at work.
Other options in Osaka
WeWork Midosuji Frontier - This is another solid option and also open until 20:00. Preference would only go to Namba due to the views, as this one is spread over the first two floors of this office building.
WeWork LINKS UMEDA - One large open-plan floor based within a large shopping centre in the Umeda area. Shuts at 18:00, so not the best option if you are working later into the evening.
Remote work visa
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If staying for a prolonged period, you may want to consider a dedicated visa for this destination.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
Check your government website for details of how to obtain a tourist visa.
Japan has introduced a new digital nomad visa under its specified visa category, allowing remote workers to stay in Japan for up to 6 months.
Requirements include having an annual income over 10 million yen (around $65,000 USD), private health insurance, and being from an eligible country like the US, UK, EU, Australia, Singapore or South Korea.
Visa holders are not considered residents, cannot extend their stay beyond 6 months, cannot open bank accounts or access national healthcare system in Japan.
Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.
Safety
- As far as large cities go, an incredibly safe place.I walked around at all hours of the day and at all times it felt extremely secure with nothing of concern. Like Tokyo, worth exercising some caution if anyone is inviting you to drink anywhere.
Off-work
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Visit Osaka Castle
Constructed in the late 16th century, the castle features towering stone walls and a renowned main tower with intricate wooden architecture and green tiled roof. It played a key role in Japan's unification under the Tokugawa shogunate.
The moat and surrounding park make for a popular running route over the weekends.
Duration & season
Days in May were warm, bordering on hot during the daytime, with one day completely written off due to wet weather. Higher summer temperatures would have been unappealing with the hectic nature of the city and no beach access.
One week was an ideal duration to pass through for an intense week of exploring. I would happily return or recommend a full month if the opportunity were to present itself.
Food & drink
People
Osaka attracts 12 million visitors a year, and there was a noticeable increase in tourists compared to my preceding visits to Fukuoka and Hiroshima.
At each of the WeWorks I visited, there was a marginal increase in the number of foreigners, but it was far from being a remote hub.
Exercise
Utsubo Park
Yodo River Run
Verdict
Positives
- An exciting and stimulating place to be.Osaka felt like it had a certain je ne sais quoi which makes simply walking around a city a satisfying experience. Perhaps it's the culmination of thousands of visitors arriving and departing through the city every day, but it has an infectious, energetic energy which was noticeably absent from both Fukuoka and Hiroshima.
- Highly effective public transport.The combination of the metro, local rail, and the Shinkansen makes getting into and around what is an enormous metropolitan area a breeze.
- Very international.Whilst the overwhelming majority of foreigners you will meet will be those on holiday, it's a great place to meet people from around the world.
- An excellent selection of food.Osaka felt exceptionally well-served with numerous standing bars, izakayas, and kappo restaurants.
- You don't have to travel as far for hiking and nature as from Tokyo.If you want to escape the city, the metropolitan area is smaller, making hiking in nearby hills more achievable.
Negatives
- Hectic.From my experiences and from other Japanese people I spoke to, Osaka is frequently regarded as being as busy as Tokyo, if not exceeding it in terms of intensity. You're unlikely to emerge feeling refreshed from a stint staying in the city centre.
- Highly concentrated hubs of activity.Outside of the areas surrounding Namba and Umeda, none of the other areas I passed through made a significant impression or warranted further exploration.
Tips
- Kyoto is easily achievable as a day trip.Only 30 minutes on the train, tickets cost 500 Yen (£2.50) for a single journey. Whilst it's a beautiful place, one day in Kyoto was sufficient for myself in what felt like a particularly saturated area of tourism in the country.
- There are two airports serving the city.Itami serves domestic flights and Kansai International. It's about an hour's drive between them if attempting to connect flights.
- Osaka and Shin-Osaka are separate train stations.Shin-Osaka serves the Shinkansen train services, whilst both have JR lines running through them. Worth clarifying if ever in doubt.
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Planning a trip?
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