Summary
Having spent a week in Busan on the other side of the Korean Strait, Fukuoka provided a convenient, if unconventional, starting point for my Japanese itinerary.
I had relatively low expectations from a city I had previously never heard of, but an abundance of cheap hotels and WeWork availability made it a viable starting point.
Accommodation
Based on my wider experiences in Japan, it's best to search for a hotel in major cities rather than relying on the limited stock on Airbnb, especially for short stays.
I could happily recommend the Hotel Oriental Express Fukuoka Nakasu Kawabata. Despite the lack of natural light in the room, it was a comfortable base for the week.
The price was very reasonable at around £45 a night, which includes access to the gym on the top floor. The ground floor lobby was also a perfectly adequate place to work late into the evening with complimentary coffee until 22:00. When searching for hotels in Japan, I would suggest having a browse on Agoda, where some of the best value deals can be found.
Places to work
The city has two WeWork locations at the Gates shopping centre and also at Damiyo. Alongside these, there are various local coworking operators and numerous coffee shops open late into the evening.
If you're only in town for a couple of nights, consider a more business-oriented hotel (of which there are plenty) that provides spaces to work. Alongside these there are a range of local coworking operators and there's plentiful coffee shops open later into the evening.
Value
Prices were in Fukuoka were on a par with the rest of the country, with eating out particularly good value.
Working hours
Japan observes Japan Standard Time (JST), which is 9 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). However, the time difference reduces to 8 hours during the summer months as Japan does not observe daylight saving time.This large gap in time zones has advantages and disadvantages, but planning a trip during the summer would reduce the likelihood of having to work past midnight to maintain alignment with European schedules.
🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
Where to stay
The city is served by a decent metro service making it easy to get across the city but I would suggest staying within close proximity to one of these three.
Where to work
WeWork - Gates Fukuoka
Out of the two WeWork sites in the city, this is your best bet if you are working later evenings.
Based on the top floor of the Gates shopping centre, there is a large open plan area for All Access members. Softbank also have an office on site which makes for an interesting observation if you're familiar with their involvement in the company.
The shopping centre has easy access to the metro station, with numerous supermarkets and restaurants in easy reach. The only downside is a lack of any natural light, but assuming you'll only be passing through, it is not of major concern.
The office stays open until 20:00 which makes it a better option than the nearby Daimyo site, which finishes at 18:00.
Remote work visa
If staying for a prolonged period, you may want to consider a dedicated visa for this destination.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
Check your government website for details of how to obtain a tourist visa.
Japan has introduced a new digital nomad visa under its specified visa category, allowing remote workers to stay in Japan for up to 6 months.
Requirements include having an annual income over 10 million yen (around $65,000 USD), private health insurance, and being from an eligible country like the US, UK, EU, Australia, Singapore or South Korea.
Visa holders are not considered residents, cannot extend their stay beyond 6 months, cannot open bank accounts or access national healthcare system in Japan.
Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.
Safety
Off-work
Explore the Uminonakamichi Peninsula
Easily reachable by either a ferry boat or train, it's definitely worth an afternoon exploring this quiet stretch of land which wraps around the Hakata Bay. Uminokamichi Seaside Park is a large well landscaped public park bordering the sea and walking further west will take you towards Shika Island, home to several Shinto shrines and an observatory. Head towards Saitozaki or 志賀島 Ferry terminals.
Duration & season
I can't imagine theres many better times of year to visit than May. Daytime temperatures were in the mid-20s, never scorching, with a cool breeze in the evenings. The city is not immune to the wet season in June, which you may want to avoid, especially if planning to enjoy the coastline.
A couple of nights would be sufficient for exploring the city centre while on holiday. However, if you're not in a rush and focusing on work, there's no reason it couldn't be an adequate base for a few weeks.
Food & drink
People
Of all the places I visited in Japan, Fukuoka was comfortably the least populated with tourists. Despite being an unassuming city, there was still a fair number of people passing through, as it serves as a gateway to the southern parts of the country and also to Korea.
Exercise
Maizuru Park
Shikanoshima Island Loop
Verdict
Positives
- More of a manageable size than other large Japanese cities.Whilst it's still a big city, you stand more chance of covering more of it over the course of a week compared to Tokyo or Osaka.
- Not a major tourist destination.If you're looking for somewhere less conventional to explore, it is certainly more off the beaten track.
- Effective public transport.The combination of three metro lines, Shinkansen and local train lines mean it's easy to get in around and out of the city.
- It has WeWorks.If you already have access, this makes for a hassle free working experience working from either of the two sites.
Negatives
- By no means an exciting place.Compared to the larger Japanese cities, it certainly lacked some of the buzz and excitement which you would be hoping for from a trip to Japan.
Tips
- Busan in South Korea is reachable by ferry boat.If you fancy an alternative to the flight, there is a ferry boat that will take you between the two cities. If I had a more relaxed time schedule, I would have opted for that.
- Fukuoka felt like it had the highest density of 'hostess' bars.Even compared to Osaka and Tokyo, I was astounded to witness the number of women with price cards around their neck advertising the 'Kyabakura' bars. As a foreigner, they are unlikely to engage you on the street, but it is initially quite astonishing to witness this well-entrenched part of Japanese culture playing out on the street. Before you ask, I didn't explore any but they endure to be fascinating concepts for someone from the West.