Summary
After a hectic week, as I had envisioned in Tokyo, I booked a week in Okinawa's capital as a fitting way to conclude the Japanese itinerary, blissfully unaware at the time of booking that this period coincides with particularly wet weather.
Accommodation
Naha was by far the best city I had visited in Japan for Airbnb options. There was a surprisingly good range of modern apartments, centrally located and very affordable, in complete contrast with other cities.
As with other destinations in Japan, it's well worth considering hotels, where prices are generally lower than what you would expect to pay for equivalent accommodations in Western Europe.
Places to work
There are several options in the city but by no means is it a great destination for working from. I had a pleasurable week at .andwork okinawa which I've written about in greater details below.
If i was to return again, I would look for an Airbnb with a suitable working environment, or a hotel with a lounge or lobby to work from as whilst the options in the city are passable, unless you are dying to get out of the house, it's not worth the hassle.
Value
Prices were in line with the other destinations I had visited in Japan, with a particularly large number of inexpensive options for lunch. Walking around Makishi Market you can easily find small lunch boxes containing Rice, Fish and vegetables for 200 Yen (£1).
Working hours
Japan observes Japan Standard Time (JST), which is 9 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). However, the time difference reduces to 8 hours during the summer months as Japan does not observe daylight saving time.This large gap in time zones has advantages and disadvantages, but planning a trip during the summer would reduce the likelihood of having to work past midnight to maintain alignment with European schedules.
🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
Where to stay
Where to work
andwork Okinawa
After looking around at several other sites in the city, this seems to be your best option if staying in Naha. Located on the ground floor of the Estinate Hotel, they offer daily, weekly, and monthly working passes for using their ground floor lobby and lounge area.
A weekly pass costs 7,000 Yen (£35), while a single day pass is 2,000 Yen (£10), both giving you access from 8:00 AM to 10:00 PM. Although not a conventional office space, it makes for a surprisingly comfortable base with a few large desks and a central area with stools. There's an outdoor seating area, which is a good option on sunnier days.
Each pass includes three complimentary drinks throughout the day (only one being coffee) and a complimentary hour of free beer from 5:00 PM to 6:00 PM, which may come dangerously early in your work day. There's an on-site cafe specialising in tacos, ideal for evening snacks.
Some downsides are the lack of a dedicated area for sensitive calls and a noisier-than-ideal general ambiance. However, assuming you're a short-term visitor, neither of these should deter you.
Other options In Naha
HAVE A GOOD DAY - This site only recently opened and looks like it could be an ideal work-oriented place. At the time of visiting, there was no one in the entire building, which led to a bit of an empty ambiance. It has great potential though, so I would suggest poking your head in for a walk around as it begins to gain traction. It closes at 20:00 in the evenings.
Remote work visa
If staying for a prolonged period, you may want to consider a dedicated visa for this destination.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
Check your government website for details of how to obtain a tourist visa.
Japan has introduced a new digital nomad visa under its specified visa category, allowing remote workers to stay in Japan for up to 6 months.
Requirements include having an annual income over 10 million yen (around $65,000 USD), private health insurance, and being from an eligible country like the US, UK, EU, Australia, Singapore or South Korea.
Visa holders are not considered residents, cannot extend their stay beyond 6 months, cannot open bank accounts or access national healthcare system in Japan.
Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.
Safety
- An exceptionally safe city.Even by Japanese standards, Naha is a particularly safe city. It's common to see bikes left unlocked across the city centre.
Off-work
Visit Shuri Castle
Shuri Castle, a gusuku (Okinawan castle), served as the palace of the Ryukyu Kingdom for several centuries. Perched atop a hill overlooking the city, its impressive red-tiled buildings showcase a unique architectural style blending Japanese, Chinese, and Okinawan influences.
It's worth noting that the castle is undergoing large-scale renovation works until 2025 due to a major fire in 2019.
Duration & season
There is no case for visiting Naha in June, as the wet season can bring prolonged periods of rain. If you have a short amount of time, you don't want any days wiped out by heavy rain. You don't even benefit from the late sunsets that characterise this period in Europe, with darkness falling just before 7 PM.
March to Mid-May appeared to be the sweet spot to make the most of the warmer weather before the rains arrive.
If you're in Japan for an extended period, you could create a great 5-day holiday itinerary for the island as a whole. There's no need for more than a day in Naha itself. I enjoyed the week I spent there, but as a place to work remotely, there isn't enough attraction to draw you away from the larger cities of the mainland, unless explicitly wanting to make use of it's aquatic qualities.
Food & drink
People
The presence of the US military base seems to attract more Americans than other places I saw within the country, especially in the area of Chatan, which is in close proximity to the base.
It's a popular tourist destination for Japanese from the mainland as well as neighbouring countries in Asia, so for such a small city, it has a remarkably international feel.
There was scant evidence of a remote work community; each of the coworking spaces I visited was practically empty, but this may have been partly due to it being the off-season.
Exercise
Chatan -> Naha Cosatal Run
Verdict
Positives
- A contrast to the larger and more hectic cities.A much more manageable sized city means there is no chance you'll feel rushed off your feet.
- Affordable and good quality accommodation options on Airbnb.It felt a lot easier to find a good quality apartment at a reasonable price here compared to other destinations in the country.
- Ideal for water-based activities.If you are looking to spend time diving or surfing then this could be a great option.
- Very well connected to the mainland.Domestic flights are frequent and cheap to lots of cities across the mainland.
Negatives
- Not the most authentic Japanese experience.This makes it an interesting addition to a wider itinerary of the country but you wouldn't want to make it your sole destination in Japan.
- You really need a car to get the most out of the island.Although the bus network covers most areas, it's slow and infrequent, particularly for reaching the northern parts of Okinawa.
- A bit on the quiet side.Especially if you have been in Osaka and Tokyo, Naha will feel a little sleepy.
Tips
- If arriving at the airport, take the monorail or bus into the city center.The buses accept VISA cards (not Mastercard) or cash, so ensure you have one of these payment methods with you.
- The bus ticket system can be confusing.Once you board, get a ticket from the machine at the front. The fare depends on how far you travel. Watch the digital display above the driver to see how much you owe based on your ticket number.
- Air Asia has started doing direct flights from Bangkok.The five hour flight makes it a convenient way of getting to the island rather than going via the mainland.