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Some of these trips are now more than 3 years old. If you notice any inaccuracies, or a coffee shop has sadly closed down, please get in touch.
Intro
Should you go?
Summary
Where to stay
Where to work
Remote work visa
Safety
Off work
Duration & season
Food & drink
People
Exercise
Verdict

Marrakesh

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Hot & hectic.

One of the country's four Imperial Cities, situated in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains.

Founded in 1070 by the Almoravid dynasty, the city served as Morocco's capital for centuries. Morocco's most famous tourist destination and home to the vibrant Jemaa el-Fna square,

Morocco
Oct 2025
Moroccan Dirham (MAD)
1 week

RAK

1,050,000

Should you go?

Consider for a holiday.

Consider for a holiday.

Consider for a holiday.

Consider for a holiday.

The most fun option at your disposal in the country. Try it on holiday first, and head back for a longer stay if it suits your needs, as it's not a guaranteed home run.

🏝️ Great for a holiday
💰 Great value

Summary

I was in no rush to revisit Marrakesh. On a visit ten years ago, my experience was confined almost entirely to the medina. It ticked all the boxes for a memorable holiday but not as somewhere I'd want to conduct serious work from.

I felt it was worth one more attempt, however, as a potential base for work, opting this time to settle away from the historic centre in the more contemporary Gueliz district.

68
69
76
77
Total:
Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
77
%
info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.

Considering its reputation as a global tourist destination, Airbnb in Marrakesh is still reasonable value.

If you are looking for a one-bed apartment, you should be able to find somewhere for around £850 a month in the more modern area of Gueliz, with the medina more suitable for homestays and hotels than contemporary apartments.

Considering the seasonal demand for properties, book as far in advance as possible if planning a prolonged stay to get the best availability.

The city can be loud, so take seriously any comments on noise pollution which may accompany a listing. Moroccan drivers like to make liberal use of their car horns and if you are in close proximity to a main road, they may become an unwanted feature of your nightly sleep.

Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
68
%

You've got a number of choices for coworking within Marrakesh, but not as many great quality options as you may be hoping for, reflective of its status as more of a leisure destination than a commercial hub.

Assuming you are staying in Gueliz, you are not spoilt for choice. There is no branch of the Commons chain, which is a strong asset in both Rabat and Casablanca, with several other independent operators on offer. I opted for CWC, which I've written about in greater depth below.

I spent one afternoon working from the Thirty5ive coffee shop, which with some dedicated desks upstairs, quality coffee and internet speeds of over 400Mbps (!) makes for a perfect stop-gap solution if you need somewhere to get work done for a couple of hours.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
76
%

Like most places throughout the country, day-to-day living costs are unparalleled across Europe. Expect to pick up a hearty local meal like a tagine for well under £5, always served with plentiful bread as an accompaniment.

An espresso from a traditional café costs around £1, whilst a simple breakfast with eggs, bread, olives and an orange juice can be found in most places for around £3. Prices for more international items can begin to creep up, but if you are interested in primarily exploring traditional Moroccan cuisine, you can live very well on a modest budget.

Taxi rides via InDrive are inexpensive, with most journeys within the city costing no more than a couple of pounds at a time.

Local beers from bars start at around £1.70 for a small bottle, with prices scaling up considerably when looking for imported items from more sophisticated outlets.

With good availability of affordable apartments and low day-to-day costs, if you are looking to operate within European working hours and remain within an hour's flight of the continent, there are few better options for those seeking to minimise their monthly expenditure as dramatically as possible.

Prices did feel noticeably higher in Marrakesh when compared to the rest of the country, which is unsurprising given the high tourist footfall through the city. But these fluctuations are negligible in the grand scheme of things and are unlikely to cause you to adjust your plans or budget in any capacity.

info
The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
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Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
69
%

Marrakesh is comfortably the most exciting place I've visited in the country. As somewhere to live, Gueliz has a good energy throughout the day, busy from sunrise late into the evening. The medina itself is a bustling hive of activity, one you are best dipping in and out of. It's certainly more exciting and concentrated than Casablanca.

But it's an unconventional city. It doesn't really have any direct comparison within Europe, it's not a contemporary hub of commerce, and the overwhelming majority of the foreign population there are on holiday.

Morocco is ultimately not a good country for city lovers. Marrakesh would end up topping that list by virtue of being the best of a bad bunch. And it's worth noting that it does this because it is pandering to tourists' desires rather than being somewhere which inherently holds these values.

Working hours

Morocco operates on GMT+1 throughout most of the year, making it one hour ahead of the UK during winter months when the UK is on GMT, and perfectly aligned with UK working hours during summer when the UK observes daylight saving time (BST).

The exception is during Ramadan, when Morocco temporarily switches to GMT for approximately six weeks, though the dates vary each year as Ramadan follows the lunar calendar.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
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Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
Do you need to speak Portugese?
After spending 10 weeks speaking (limited) Spanish across the rest of the continent, I struggled arriving in Brazil.

While I was far from conversational in Spanish, I quickly realised when I stepped out of the airport my vocabulary didn't extend a single word beyond 'Obrigado!'.
‍
In general, English is generally spoken incredibly sparsely. The most flowing interaction I had ended up being with an Uber driver where we periodically shouted out the names of Brazilian footballers playing in the English Premier League.

You can scrape by for a couple of weeks, but if you're planning on staying longer, I'd 100% recommend learning some basics to get the most out of the experience.
Jemaa el-Fnaa is an enormous square in the heart of the medina, particularly atmospheric at sunset as the light begins to fade. Expect a noisy, hectic scene, with food vendors and traders spread around the space.
Jemaa el-Fnaa is an enormous square in the heart of the medina, particularly atmospheric at sunset as the light begins to fade. Expect a noisy, hectic scene, with food vendors and traders spread around the space.
Only a 15-minute walk from the medina, Plaza Guéliz feels a world away from the chaos. Expect new residential developments, high-end retail, and a more polished expression of contemporary Morocco. Being within a 10-minute walk of this area is a good benchmark when sourcing accommodation.
Only a 15-minute walk from the medina, Plaza Guéliz feels a world away from the chaos. Expect new residential developments, high-end retail, and a more polished expression of contemporary Morocco. Being within a 10-minute walk of this area is a good benchmark when sourcing accommodation.
If your stomach feels up to it, the medina is a great place to sample local moroccan street food. It’s hard to pass up a grilled merguez sausage sandwich, served with onions and cheese in a freshly baked roll. It costs around £1.50.
If your stomach feels up to it, the medina is a great place to sample local moroccan street food. It’s hard to pass up a grilled merguez sausage sandwich, served with onions and cheese in a freshly baked roll. It costs around £1.50.
🔎
November 2024 Fact Check
Given the instability in Argentina over the past few years, I found that most advice on key topics, even if written within the last 12 months, bordered on being dangerously outdated.

I have attempted to summarise some of the most misleading points I encountered.
"Nowhere accepts card"
Incorrect
Card availability is now excellent across the city. Even if you are purchasing a single empanada, bananas from a greengrocer, or buying cans of beer off a man in the street before a football match. Some businesses may offer a 10% discount if you use cash, or charge a small surcharge for card payments.
"It's difficult to get a SUBE card"
Incorrect
This was true in recent years, as there had been a shortage of the cards across the city due to a lack of the plastics needed to create the card. I had no problems going to the nearest off-licence and getting a card on my first attempt. It's worth asking your Airbnb host who may have a spare.
"Buenos Aires is cheap"
Incorrect
The biggest misconception that may still linger, even if you are reading articles from 2023. If planning on eating out heavily, then expect European prices or even higher on more imported day-to-day goods. Eating out aside, day-to-day expenses are still good value by global measures.
"Bring dollars with you"
Partially true
This advice would continue to make sense for Americans who already have dollars, but I wouldn't recommend making an effort to purchase with the intent of exchanging them on the ground. Collecting money via Western Union was convenient and good value, which I would recommend to anyone visiting from outside the US.
"Make sure you get the blue-dollar rate"
Partially true
The dramatic stabilisation of the peso by late 2024 means that this difference is nowhere near as significant as it was 12 months ago. At the time of writing, there was only a 10% difference between the official and blue rate. If you are only in the city for a short period you may not even have to grapple with this.
"Restaurant service is poor"
Partially true
I did see some evidence of this, especially in cheaper,  traditional restaurants. In comical fashion, drinks would not appear or the bill would never materialise. In more contemporary outlets, it was never a problem.
"It is a football mad city"
True
There is absolutely no doubt that this is as true as ever in 2024.

Where to stay

Whilst the medina may top the list for those looking for a memorable holiday experience, that wisdom should be questioned for anyone planning a prolonged remote-work stint in the city.

Gueliz
Recommended
Would avoid
I liked Gueliz a lot. Around a 15-minute walk from the west entrance to the medina, you've got what feels like the best long-term base in the city. There's some relatively normal-ish pubs by Moroccan standards, a good mix of local and international cuisine, and a top-quality coffee shop with 'Thirty5ive'. You won't struggle to find a good Airbnb in the area, with plenty of modern residential buildings. The large Carrefour Market on Boulevard Mohammed V was one of the best supermarkets I found in the entire country.
CWC Hub Coworking & Consulting
Hivernage
Recommended
Would avoid
A little more progressively upscale and quieter than Gueliz. As nice an area as it is, unless you are intentionally looking for something more sedate and quieter, I wouldn't prioritise it. Still an easy walking distance.
CWC Hub Coworking & Consulting
Medina
Recommended
Would avoid
If it's your first time in Marrakesh and you want a memorable, quintessential experience, then by all means stay in the medina. Especially on holiday. It can still make a viable place to stay if you've been before and know what to expect. But if it's your first time, I would play it safe and dip in and out as you see fit. If you do stay inside it, try and be close to one of the perimeter gates so you don't have to endure a 25-minute+ commute through the maze-like labyrinth of streets.
Cowork in Marrakech

Where to work

CWC Hub Coworking & Consulting
Top choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top location
🥗 On site cafe
🧍Community focused
⭐️ Quality fit out
🌳 Outdoor Space

Being within a ten-minute walk of my Airbnb, CWC looked the best of the options on hand within Morocco to spend a few days working from.

The office is on the fourth floor of a commercial building in the heart of Gueliz, and features a large open-plan coworking space with around 15 desk spaces with large, professional chairs. There's a small outdoor terrace overlooking the street below and a couple of private offices and a meeting room coming off from the main area.

If you need somewhere to solely focus on getting work done, it's ideal. However, if you need to be jumping on calls frequently throughout the day, it is problematic. You can use the meeting room if it's not occupied, but there isn't anywhere with soft furnishings you can comfortably sit in, like you may get in a WeWork or similar.

You can sit on the terrace outdoors, but there is no guarantee that it will be empty as it was often occupied by local men chain-smoking cigarettes over a sustained two-hour period.

A day pass costs around £12, which doesn't include any coffee or drinking water, so at least by national standards makes it slightly dearer than other options you may find.

The surrounding area was the best I found during my time in Morocco. Gueliz has a great array of local and international options for lunch and dinner, and the Thirty3ive speciality coffee shop is just within walking distance.

If you need a reliable, calm environment for a few days, I'd look no further, but it's not somewhere I would base an extended trip around.

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Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for {$$$}.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.
Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
Learn more open_in_new
To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of October 2025. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it! Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

  • I didn't see anything to be concerned about from a safety perspective.I walked around the city extensively and it felt safe and secure at all times, with a visible police presence.
  • Drivers' disregard for pedestrians is likely your biggest real concern.Pay extra attention when crossing the road, even if a light is flashing green.
  • Use InDrive.I never experienced anything longer than a four-minute wait for a taxi. Sometimes the car that arrived didn't match the registration plate shown in the app, though I wouldn't worry too much about this. Ensure you have small change on you.

Off work

No items found.
No items found.

Duration & season

The weather was close to ideal during October and notably warmer than the coastal cities. The peak seasons for the country tend to be during spring, with autumn slightly quieter, both periods avoiding the intensity of midsummer heat. There wasn't a cloud in the sky during the week I was there, with temperatures climbing to the early 30s even going into late October.

How long do you need in Marrakesh? It will be a city that has a Marmite reaction for a lot of people. Some will love it, some will hate it, but either way I would assume most people would be somewhat happy to leave after 72 hours for somewhere maybe a little calmer, especially if you are staying in the medina.

For a month-long remote work stay, it likely represents the best option in the country. It has the most activity, pulses with energy and you're likely to get better weather deeper into winter than in the north.

But I would still be hesitant to recommend a month to anyone without them having any prior knowledge of what Morocco is like. A week's stay as part of a month-long trip of the country would be ideal to gauge whether you want to return for a longer stint.

Food & drink

Thirty5ive Marrakech
Gueliz
A strong contender for the best coffee shop in the country. Excellent quality beans with a variety of brew methods offered and an upstairs area with desks suitable for working from. It's quiet, relaxed and with download speeds of over 400mbps (!) can make for an excellent place to work from for a few hours.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Hyuna House Cafe
Medina
A Korean-themed speciality coffee shop nestled deep in the medina. Excellent quality beans, friendly service and a small, quirky interior. Well worth passing through if you are in the maze of surrounding alleyways.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Café Atlas
Gueliz
Placed on Abd al-Mu'min Square, this is an ideal place to pick up a local-style breakfast, ubiquitously served with an orange juice and your choice of hot drinks. Open from 8:30 and an ideal perch to people-watch during the passing crowds' morning commute. 5-minute walk from the CWC working space.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Zaman Food
Medina
If you are looking for somewhere clean and reliable in the centre of the Medina, I would look no further. Good menu of national cuisines, staff who speak good English, spread over three floors with a small roof terrace. Would return if in the area.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Exercise
Moulay Hassan Park
·
Run
Ideal place to run in the morning, around a mile away from Gueliz. It looks rather desolate in the dim early morning light but you'll encounter groups of young guys in the middle of fervent games of football, even at 7am. Home to a small callisthenics gym and skatepark should either of those take your fancy.
Medina Loop
·
Walk
You could spend five days exploring the medina on foot and still have new areas to explore at the end of the week. It's a labyrinth of small streets and alleys, with a mix of both tourists and local people still going about their day-to-day activities. Wouldn't attempt to run through there at any point due to the sheer volume of people passing through the often tiny alleys.
Park Arsat Moulay Abdesalam
·
Run
Easily reachable if you are staying in either Gueliz or the Medina, these ornamental gardens dating from the 18th century are an ideal place to escape the traffic, with some shaded paths. Head a little further south to take in Park Lalla Hasna and the distinctive Koutoubia Minaret.

People

Attracting over 4.5 million people a year, Marrakesh is comfortably the country’s most popular tourist destination, and you’ll inevitably overhear accents from all around the world while circling the medina and walking through the centre of Gueliz.

On the day I visited the CWC Coworking space, I was the sole non-Moroccan in there. There is something of a nascent remote work community in the city, but do not expect anything resembling Bali or other established remote work hubs.

Exercise

Moulay Hassan Park
Ideal place to run in the morning, around a mile away from Gueliz. It looks rather desolate in the dim early morning light but you'll encounter groups of young guys in the middle of fervent games of football, even at 7am. Home to a small callisthenics gym and skatepark should either of those take your fancy.
keyboard_arrow_down
Medina Loop
You could spend five days exploring the medina on foot and still have new areas to explore at the end of the week. It's a labyrinth of small streets and alleys, with a mix of both tourists and local people still going about their day-to-day activities. Wouldn't attempt to run through there at any point due to the sheer volume of people passing through the often tiny alleys.
keyboard_arrow_down
Park Arsat Moulay Abdesalam
Easily reachable if you are staying in either Gueliz or the Medina, these ornamental gardens dating from the 18th century are an ideal place to escape the traffic, with some shaded paths. Head a little further south to take in Park Lalla Hasna and the distinctive Koutoubia Minaret.
keyboard_arrow_down
Medina Loop
You could spend five days exploring the medina on foot and still have new areas to explore at the end of the week. It's a labyrinth of small streets and alleys, with a mix of both tourists and local people still going about their day-to-day activities. Wouldn't attempt to run through there at any point due to the sheer volume of people passing through the often tiny alleys.
Park Arsat Moulay Abdesalam
Easily reachable if you are staying in either Gueliz or the Medina, these ornamental gardens dating from the 18th century are an ideal place to escape the traffic, with some shaded paths. Head a little further south to take in Park Lalla Hasna and the distinctive Koutoubia Minaret.
Moulay Hassan Park
Ideal place to run in the morning, around a mile away from Gueliz. It looks rather desolate in the dim early morning light but you'll encounter groups of young guys in the middle of fervent games of football, even at 7am. Home to a small callisthenics gym and skatepark should either of those take your fancy.

Verdict

Positives
  • The medina is incredible.If you want to immerse yourself in another world, get lost down little alleyways, pick up some appetising (if hygienically questionable) street food and break out of the trivialities of day-to-day life, it's an amazing experience. After a couple of hours, it's equally enjoyable to leave and return to the (relative) normality of the Moroccan roads. You probably don't want to be doing this every day, which is why I ultimately see it as more of a holiday destination to 'experience' than somewhere to consider pitching up longer term.
  • Plenty of tasty national food to explore.Morocco is well renowned for its culinary delights and Marrakesh is a fine place to sample an endless array of tagine varieties, soups, salads and sweet items. Prices are inexpensive, portions are generous and I found the quality to be incredibly consistent, with marginal differences in flavours from a 30-dirham tagine from a working-class snack bar to something three times the price in a more formal restaurant setting.
  • There are some excellent coffee shops.Lightly roasted coffee is in short supply across Morocco, but there are a couple of great shops in Marrakesh, with Thirty5ive and Hyuna House being two of the standouts, serving speciality-grade beans through a range of filter options. Something sorely missing from even the larger, more developed cities in the country.
  • Comfortably the most international of any of the nation's cities.If you want to meet others, whether that's fellow remote workers or just people passing by on holiday, nothing will come close to Marrakesh. The smaller size and concentration of the city's key areas means this cohort is particularly visible, the opposite of what you may find in Casablanca.
  • Great winter, deep into the autumn.The coastal cities were still mild during this trip, but being that much more southerly meant Marrakesh still felt like it was enjoying the height of summer. Pure shirts and shorts weather, both during the day and long into the evening.
  • Good selection of international cuisine.You'll find a good mix of foods on offer, all generally at reasonable prices. This is predominantly to cater for the tourist crowds but can make a good alternative to freshen up your diet after polishing off your 11th tagine of the week.
  • The most 'normal' bars I found in the country.This was an impossible task in all of the other cities I visited, but catering to the prominent tourist market in the city, there are several pubs along Bd Hassan II which resemble something you may expect to see in Europe. They still carry more of a mixed feel of a restaurant but are a significant improvement from the dark, dingy and unappealing venues found elsewhere.
  • Fast internet.Internet speeds at Airbnbs, coworking spaces and even through cellular connections on my eSIM were routinely excellent and a world away from the frequent dial-up speeds I encountered in nearby Tunisia. Better connection and speeds than I routinely find within the UK.
Negatives
  • It's not a huge city.Once you take away the sizeable medina, you're not left with a great amount aside from Gueliz. Over the course of a month, you don't have a particularly large, or at least appetising, urban expanse to explore in the same way that you would in, say, Istanbul or a major Western city. If staying for a month, you may want to factor in some excursions to fill out the weekends.
  • It's a highly concentrated tourist area.I generally prefer visiting places which don't have such a strong saturation of tourism or are at least big enough so that the feeling of it is more dispersed and not prevalent. There is no escaping that Marrakesh is a relatively small city primarily geared towards serving a continuous stream of passing tourists. On reflection, there aren't that many externalities which stem from this. In Gueliz, the saturation of tourists is certainly lower than what I anticipated. Even inside the medina, you are rarely harassed with any intensity. But this is a holiday destination, not somewhere people come to work, and this creates something of a dichotomy, at least in the environment I would prefer to work from.
  • It is not on the high-speed train line.An extension from Casablanca is planned within the next decade, but the current train service is a world away from the splendour provided by the Al Boraq trains in the north. Expect slow, hot and frequently stopping carriages, with journeys during peak hours being described as 'uncomfortable' at best.
Tips
  • A small amount of French and Arabic will suffice for day-to-day communication.Moroccan Arabic (Darija) is the main spoken language within the country, with some official documentation and road signs presented in French. You may also see a third peculiar-looking Berber script (Tifinagh) on government buildings. If you can recall a few phrases from your secondary school French education, they may prove useful, though English is generally spoken to a reasonable standard in many places.
  • An eSIM from MobiMatter is good value.10GB costs around £12 and gave strong coverage and speeds wherever I was in the country.
  • Head to Al Barid Bank for ATM withdrawals.These are often attached to Maroc Post Offices and reliably give fee-free withdrawals. I withdrew around 300 dirhams every couple of days, with card availability mixed.
  • Use InDrive for ride-sharing.It works similarly to Uber or Bolt except it's based on a bid system where drivers will accept your quote or give you an offer. This generally works fine in inner-city areas but can leave you susceptible to fare gouging if coming from the airport. Fares are paid in cash, so wherever possible try and carry some small notes and change.
  • The high-speed Al-Boraq train service is exceptional.Africa's first high-speed railway service is an exceptionally well-put-together piece of national infrastructure. Tickets are inexpensive and easy to book via the national rail ONCF app. The trains themselves operate at over 300kmph, have large, spacious seats in second class and dedicated restaurant carriages on each service. On the contrary, the local regional services can be diabolical by comparison. Plan accordingly and avoid any non-high-speed services wherever possible, especially if travelling at peak hours or carrying large luggage. Your seat reservation may exist in name only.
  • The culture surrounding alcohol in Morocco is generally unappealing.Establishments fall into three brackets. The first are rustic, smoke-filled environments populated by older men watching European football. These are by far the best. Expect sparse wooden furnishings, small tapas like olives or Moroccan salads, and around 25 dirhams for a small beer. The next tier are pub/restaurants, again featuring sports on TVs but focused on food. These are invariably some of the darkest venues you'll ever see, as if daylight has never penetrated them, and prices creep up dramatically. The final type are 'lounges' with modern Arab/Eastern aesthetics, soft furnishings, shisha and large plasma screens, usually with someone burly and uninviting standing outside. These account for some of the least attractive options I have found worldwide. The welcome can be less than warm, and Google Maps reviews frequently mention scams. Unless you are desperate for a drink, I'd consider giving all three of them a wide berth.

‍

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Even after so many years of tourism and development, Marrakesh is still far from a gentrified experience of Morocco. The roads are often chaotic, especially in the areas surrounding the medina. I counted roughly seventeen men crammed into this tiny pickup.
Park Lalla Hasna is a pleasant spot for an early morning run, with the sun peeking out behind the Koutoubia Mosque. It’s around a 20-minute run from the heart of Guéliz.
You could spend a lifetime living in Marrakesh and still struggle to cover every road and alley in this intricate web of ancient streets. It’s a great way to spend an afternoon or two exploring.

Planning a trip to

Marrakesh

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