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Some of these trips are now more than 3 years old. If you notice any inaccuracies, or a coffee shop has sadly closed down, please get in touch.
Intro
Should you go?
Summary
Where to stay
Where to work
Remote work visa
Safety
Off work
Duration & season
Food & drink
People
Exercise
Verdict

Heraklion

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A lot of potential, but best left for holidays.

Crete's capital and largest city, nestled on the northern coast of the island.

The Venetian Harbour was constructed during the Middle Ages, while the Koules Fortress stands as a remnant of Ottoman rule, which lasted from the 15th to the 19th centuries. Additionally, the Heraklion City Walls offer a glimpse into the city's defensive structures throughout history.

Greece
Mar 2023
Euro (EUR)
1 month

HER

200,000

Should you go?

Consider for a holiday.

Consider for a holiday.

Consider for a holiday.

Consider for a holiday.

Too quiet for me as a destination to work from for a month. Would work better as a stop on a month-long tour of Crete or for a week-long stay.

🏝️ Great for a holiday

Summary

After a bitterly cold couple of months in Tbilisi, I was on the search for warmer pastures and having never visited Crete, a month in it's largest city seemed to tick a lot of boxes.

71
51
70
82
Total:
Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
82
%
info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.

If you are visiting out of the main tourist seasons (before May) you should have your pick of a vast array of options for a great price.

Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
71
%

Not an enormous selection of options, but I particularly enjoyed my time at Comeet, situated just out of the historical centre. There are an absolute glut of coffee shops dotted around all areas of the city if you are just passing by.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
70
%

Eating out is good value but being such a tourist hotbed, probably not as good value as Thessaloniki and Athens.

info
The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
Read more
Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
51
%

While technically a city, the centre of Heraklion feels more like a large town in the UK, with very little going on during the week. This may change during the peak of summer, but visiting out of season, it felt noticeably sterile with a lack of real excitement in any area.

Working hours

Greece is based in Eastern European Time, perfect if you are used to working in European hours, one hour ahead of CET.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
Read article
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
Do you need to speak Portugese?
After spending 10 weeks speaking (limited) Spanish across the rest of the continent, I struggled arriving in Brazil.

While I was far from conversational in Spanish, I quickly realised when I stepped out of the airport my vocabulary didn't extend a single word beyond 'Obrigado!'.
‍
In general, English is generally spoken incredibly sparsely. The most flowing interaction I had ended up being with an Uber driver where we periodically shouted out the names of Brazilian footballers playing in the English Premier League.

You can scrape by for a couple of weeks, but if you're planning on staying longer, I'd 100% recommend learning some basics to get the most out of the experience.
No items found.
🔎
November 2024 Fact Check
Given the instability in Argentina over the past few years, I found that most advice on key topics, even if written within the last 12 months, bordered on being dangerously outdated.

I have attempted to summarise some of the most misleading points I encountered.
"Nowhere accepts card"
Incorrect
Card availability is now excellent across the city. Even if you are purchasing a single empanada, bananas from a greengrocer, or buying cans of beer off a man in the street before a football match. Some businesses may offer a 10% discount if you use cash, or charge a small surcharge for card payments.
"It's difficult to get a SUBE card"
Incorrect
This was true in recent years, as there had been a shortage of the cards across the city due to a lack of the plastics needed to create the card. I had no problems going to the nearest off-licence and getting a card on my first attempt. It's worth asking your Airbnb host who may have a spare.
"Buenos Aires is cheap"
Incorrect
The biggest misconception that may still linger, even if you are reading articles from 2023. If planning on eating out heavily, then expect European prices or even higher on more imported day-to-day goods. Eating out aside, day-to-day expenses are still good value by global measures.
"Bring dollars with you"
Partially true
This advice would continue to make sense for Americans who already have dollars, but I wouldn't recommend making an effort to purchase with the intent of exchanging them on the ground. Collecting money via Western Union was convenient and good value, which I would recommend to anyone visiting from outside the US.
"Make sure you get the blue-dollar rate"
Partially true
The dramatic stabilisation of the peso by late 2024 means that this difference is nowhere near as significant as it was 12 months ago. At the time of writing, there was only a 10% difference between the official and blue rate. If you are only in the city for a short period you may not even have to grapple with this.
"Restaurant service is poor"
Partially true
I did see some evidence of this, especially in cheaper,  traditional restaurants. In comical fashion, drinks would not appear or the bill would never materialise. In more contemporary outlets, it was never a problem.
"It is a football mad city"
True
There is absolutely no doubt that this is as true as ever in 2024.

Where to stay

Heraklion is a small city and easy to get around on foot. I wouldn't put too much emphasis on staying in the immediate centre.

Old Town
Recommended
Would avoid
The venetian walls form the perimeter of the old town where most of the town's food and drink options are.
Leof. Ionias
Recommended
Would avoid
If i was to return I would consider staying in this area just south of the old town which has a great selection of cafes and brunch spots. Only a 10 minute walk to the centre of town.

Where to work

Comeet
Top choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top location
🥗 On site cafe
🧍Community focused
⭐️ Quality fit out
🌳 Outdoor Space

Situated just a 10 minute walk from the boundaries of the City Walls, Comeet provides a peaceful and calm location to work from with both fixed desk and hot desking options. I opted for a fixed desk on the first floor where you have access to the meeting room downstairs for calls if required.

A fully stocked kitchen as well as an espresso machine is provided, with numerous lunch options and grocery shops available close by. A great option if you are looking for a peaceful and professional working environment whilst working from Heraklion.

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Flexible access to shared workspace in hundreds of locations globally. Explore hundreds of global locations, whether you need office space in New York or a meeting room in London.
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Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for {$$$}.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.

Greece introduced a Digital Nomad Visa in 2021, allowing remote workers to reside for up to two years. From January 1, 2024, applications must be submitted through Greek consulates abroad, not in-country. The visa provides access to 26 Schengen countries but requires spending at least six months in Greece. Digital nomads can bring family members.

Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
Learn more open_in_new
To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of Jan 2025. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it! Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

Off work

Walk the Venetian Walls of Heraklion

The ancient city walls actually falls well short of what they could be with some extra investment but still provide a great (if not interrupted) unique skyline walk around the perimeter of the city.

Learn more open_in_new

Duration & season

Even with it's southernly positioning, Crete is not immune from the rotations of the seasonal calendar with temperatures routinely dropping under 10 degrees throughout winter. During March it was pleasantly mild, with some stand out days of heat in the mid 20s. Sunshine and high temperatures is of course assured during the summer months.

If you are looking for beaches, the city itself wouldn't be my number one pick, with the better beaches to be found to the East of the city towards Malia.

Food & drink

Monk's
Variety of coffee beans on offer for brewing alongside sweet and savoury snacks. Comfortable indoor seating.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Afthentiko
I ate their Souvlaki skewers for 4 consecutive weeks for lunch. Tasty and friendly service.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Το Πιτόσπιτο
I wouldn't dare to pronounce the name of this place, but they did undoubtedly the best pies i encountered on the island, alongside a range of fresh juices.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Exercise
City Walls Run
·
Run
Could be an amazing route but the path is incredibly disjointed and poorly maintained forcing you up and down at various points. Still well worth checking out.
Heraklion - Rethymno
·
Cycle
Achievable in a morning, the ride out of Heraklion offers several challenging climbs. Some small towns for coffee en route.
Heraklion - Malia
·
Walk
Coast line walk which takes you to the next major town along the coast to the West. Lots of opportunities for swimming stops.

People

The demographic make up of the city is likely to swing massively depending on the time of year you visit. In the off season you're likely to see predominantly locals with the swathes of tourists making their presence felt from April onwards. The coworking space was mainly Greek's from either Crete or the mainland, with a few international remote workers present.

I stayed for one month which was plenty and one of the rare occasions where I would have been happy to have moved on early.

Exercise

City Walls Run
Could be an amazing route but the path is incredibly disjointed and poorly maintained forcing you up and down at various points. Still well worth checking out.
keyboard_arrow_down
Heraklion - Rethymno
Achievable in a morning, the ride out of Heraklion offers several challenging climbs. Some small towns for coffee en route.
keyboard_arrow_down
Heraklion - Malia
Coast line walk which takes you to the next major town along the coast to the West. Lots of opportunities for swimming stops.
keyboard_arrow_down
City Walls Run
Could be an amazing route but the path is incredibly disjointed and poorly maintained forcing you up and down at various points. Still well worth checking out.
Heraklion - Rethymno
Achievable in a morning, the ride out of Heraklion offers several challenging climbs. Some small towns for coffee en route.
Heraklion - Malia
Coast line walk which takes you to the next major town along the coast to the West. Lots of opportunities for swimming stops.

Verdict

Positives
  • A very relaxed feel.As to be expected from a touristy destination out of season, there was a very calm ambience across the entire city.
  • Moderately priced.Whilst it's not particularly cheap, eating out is relatively inexpensive compared to many other destinations.
  • Very safe and secure.In part due to how quiet a season it was.
  • Great value accommodation in the off season.Airbnbs in the run up to the summer months were some of the best value I had seen across the whole of Europe for that period.
  • A good base to explore the rest of the island from.It is easy to get around to the other towns via public transport, making them ideal for day trips.
  • Great for cycling.The quiet mountain roads are ideal for weekend rides, with no shortage of elevation.
Negatives
  • A distinct lack of ambience around the city.Even though it is the largest island in Crete and 4th largest in Greece, it doesn't feel like it. I've mentioned in other articles some cities being a pleasure to simply walk around. The opposite was true in Heraklion.
  • Not the widest array of international food.Whilst I love Greek food the Taverna and Meze culture isn't particularly ideal for a grabbing a quick meal by yourself.
Tips
  • Consider incorporating Heraklion into a wider tour of the island.There wasn't quite enough for me to justify spending a month in Heraklion, but it would be ideal for a week long trip as part of visiting the other cities on the island like Chania, Rethimno & Agios Nikolas. If i had to pick any of them for a return trip, it would be comfortably Chania.
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Heraklion

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All information presented in these articles was created to the best of my knowledge at the time of publication. Some links may take you to affiliate pages for services recommended where I may be entitled to a financial reward should you decide to make use of the services. Cookies are used to track the performance of the website and provide analytics on what's working and what's not. Thanks for reading ☕️
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