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Some of these trips are now more than 3 years old. If you notice any inaccuracies, or a coffee shop has sadly closed down, please get in touch.
Intro
Should you go?
Summary
Where to stay
Where to work
Remote work visa
Safety
Off work
Duration & season
Food & drink
People
Exercise
Verdict

Bishkek

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A remarkably peaceful capital, quietly meandering its way into the modern age.

Kyrgyzstan's capital was a model project of Soviet urban planning.

Under Soviet rule from 1926 to 1991, Bishkek today feels quite unlike any other capital I can recall visiting. Nestled in the foothills of the Ala-Too mountain range, it's characterised by countless leafy green streets and Stalinist architecture. In 2025 it still feels like it's gently transitioning to the realities of the modern day, carrying the atmosphere of a provincial town rather than a global city.

Kyrgyzstan
Jun 2025
Kyrgyzstani Som (KGS)
1 week

FRU

1.1 Million

Should you go?

Consider for a holiday.

Consider for a holiday.

Consider for a holiday.

Consider for a holiday.

Should you fly from the other side of the world to visit Bishkek? No. But if you are already in Central Asia, it's well worth a week of your time and perhaps longer if you're looking for a base to explore the rest of what is a beautiful country.

💰 Great value
🏝️ Great for a holiday
🧳 Would like to return

Summary

Bishkek was the next natural step on from Almaty, only a five-hour bus drive through the vast, barren and somewhat underwhelming plains of rural Kazakhstan. Everyone I had spoken to suggested Bishkek resembled it's neighbour ten years ago, and not in a way which particularly romanticised recent history.

With a lack of enticing apartments on Airbnb and rather muted expectations on what to find in the city, 10 nights felt like it would be sufficient to get a gauge of the nation's capital.

I'll make several references and comparisons to Almaty throughout this as it's difficult to benchmark it against any more developed cities.

74
57
84
65
Total:
Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
65
%
info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.

Perhaps not unsurprisingly, the Airbnb market in Bishkek feels distinctly underdeveloped. The availability of quality, modern one-bed options, at least at the time I was booking, appeared incredibly limited. With pleasant but unremarkable apartments priced above the £50 per night mark, considering prices elsewhere in Kyrgyzstan, this felt significantly overpriced. That said, at around £35 a night there are sufficient options adequate enough for a short stint.

If you're only in town for a week, it would be worth exploring hotels, as they are likely to offer better value for money and probably a better location in the city. This availability felt like something that could change in coming years, however, as more modern condo units appear to be springing up across the city.

I stayed in an apartment block named 'Royal', which felt fairly average by standards in the city and was a fine base for a week. I would have no issues returning to it or recommending it again for a short stay.

Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
74
%

There's a decent number of coworking spaces spread throughout Bishkek, but without knowing your way around the city, it can be challenging to ascertain where to place yourself simply by searching on Google Maps.

Technopark and Collab Coworking look like two of the best options, but are both significantly away from the city centre with underwhelming accommodation options nearby.

The Ololo chain emerged as the best bet, with several sites dispersed across the city. I opted for their site at Ololo Haus Erkindik, which was as close to a perfect base for a week as I could imagine. With limited public transport options and significant traffic when getting across the city, I'd prioritise locating something relatively close to your accommodation.

Coffee shops are generally open late into the evening and can make for viable options for a few hours' work, with Flask and White Night being particularly popular places for locals to bring their laptops along for a few hours.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
84
%

Bishkek is unmistakably great value. You can eat out in good quality restaurants for under £5 a meal, a local beer can cost as little as £1.50 in bars, with coffee and bakery items likely to be half the price of what you might expect in the UK. There isn't quite the same range of quality international options that you might expect in Almaty, but there's still a decent selection of Asian and European restaurants.

Taxis are inexpensive and make journeys to both the mountains and the airport affordable. Most journeys within the city are unlikely to cost more than a couple of pounds.

As with Almaty, however, the dramatic difference in local purchasing power means these prices represent a much greater expense for those earning local wages in som.

info
The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
Read more
Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
57
%

If you are craving the excitement and buzz of an urban metropolis, you can confidently give Bishkek a wide berth. Even more so than Almaty, it feels like a city which, due to a lack of geographical space constraints, has continued to expand outwards rather than developing any meaningful population density and typical urban core.

But it's worth emphasising that at no point did it feel boring. Rather, it felt distinctly peaceful, with enough continuous activity on the streets to not feel like a ghost town. I found it a much more engaging place than some of the smaller European capitals like Podgorica or Pristina, perhaps due to some of the novelty in the culture.

The whole city is structured in a way which many modern Western urban planners may idealistically long for. Streets are uniformly lined with tall green canopies. Large parks are naturally woven between districts. Pavements are wide and comfortably accommodate pedestrians, cyclists and scooters simultaneously. In the evenings, families walk until late, making the most of the warm summer weather. Aside from the rush hour traffic, it feels rare to see cars driving with much urgency over 20 mph.

Is this somewhere you would want to settle down permanently? Almost certainly not. But for a few relaxed weeks during the height of summer, there are far worse places you could end up spending your time.

Working hours

Bishkek operates on Kyrgyzstan Time, which is GMT+6 throughout the year, as the country does not observe daylight saving time. This makes visiting during the summer months more beneficial when attempting to maintain alignment with Europe.

Even though it's only an hour ahead of Almaty, this can increasingly eat into your evenings if you need to maintain strict working hours. Whilst not as dramatic as Thailand or elsewhere in Southeast Asia, you will likely need to make some adjustments.

I would generally start between 10:00 and 11:00 and finish at some point in the early evening, with ample time to enjoy the later sunsets that came around 20:30.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
Read article
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
Do you need to speak Portugese?
After spending 10 weeks speaking (limited) Spanish across the rest of the continent, I struggled arriving in Brazil.

While I was far from conversational in Spanish, I quickly realised when I stepped out of the airport my vocabulary didn't extend a single word beyond 'Obrigado!'.
‍
In general, English is generally spoken incredibly sparsely. The most flowing interaction I had ended up being with an Uber driver where we periodically shouted out the names of Brazilian footballers playing in the English Premier League.

You can scrape by for a couple of weeks, but if you're planning on staying longer, I'd 100% recommend learning some basics to get the most out of the experience.
A view walking through the Alamedin Valley, around an hour's drive from the centre of Bishkek. One of, if not the most beautiful views I can recall seeing. Entirely likely you won't see any other people, but there are plenty of roaming horses, cows and goats for company. There's a 10km out-and-back loop which is well worth factoring into your plans if in the city for any period of time.
A view walking through the Alamedin Valley, around an hour's drive from the centre of Bishkek. One of, if not the most beautiful views I can recall seeing. Entirely likely you won't see any other people, but there are plenty of roaming horses, cows and goats for company. There's a 10km out-and-back loop which is well worth factoring into your plans if in the city for any period of time.
This is about as busy as it gets in the centre of Bishkek, with nowhere in the core of the city truly feeling like an epicentre of activity. With that being said, there's always a comfortable amount of people on the streets, going on late into the evening.
This is about as busy as it gets in the centre of Bishkek, with nowhere in the core of the city truly feeling like an epicentre of activity. With that being said, there's always a comfortable amount of people on the streets, going on late into the evening.
Ala Too Square could be considered the heart of the city, dominated by an enormous national flag. The square becomes particularly popular in the evenings when the fountains put on a display. Built in 1984 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of Soviet rule, it was originally called Lenin Square until Kyrgyzstan's independence in 1991.
Ala Too Square could be considered the heart of the city, dominated by an enormous national flag. The square becomes particularly popular in the evenings when the fountains put on a display. Built in 1984 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of Soviet rule, it was originally called Lenin Square until Kyrgyzstan's independence in 1991.
Around a 30-minute drive south from the city centre, it's worth catching the dramatic sunset one evening at one of the bars overlooking 'Love Lake' within Adinay Park. Riders Bar features a number of speciality beers, light food options and soft beanbags to watch the sky gradually turn pink.
Around a 30-minute drive south from the city centre, it's worth catching the dramatic sunset one evening at one of the bars overlooking 'Love Lake' within Adinay Park. Riders Bar features a number of speciality beers, light food options and soft beanbags to watch the sky gradually turn pink.
🔎
November 2024 Fact Check
Given the instability in Argentina over the past few years, I found that most advice on key topics, even if written within the last 12 months, bordered on being dangerously outdated.

I have attempted to summarise some of the most misleading points I encountered.
"Nowhere accepts card"
Incorrect
Card availability is now excellent across the city. Even if you are purchasing a single empanada, bananas from a greengrocer, or buying cans of beer off a man in the street before a football match. Some businesses may offer a 10% discount if you use cash, or charge a small surcharge for card payments.
"It's difficult to get a SUBE card"
Incorrect
This was true in recent years, as there had been a shortage of the cards across the city due to a lack of the plastics needed to create the card. I had no problems going to the nearest off-licence and getting a card on my first attempt. It's worth asking your Airbnb host who may have a spare.
"Buenos Aires is cheap"
Incorrect
The biggest misconception that may still linger, even if you are reading articles from 2023. If planning on eating out heavily, then expect European prices or even higher on more imported day-to-day goods. Eating out aside, day-to-day expenses are still good value by global measures.
"Bring dollars with you"
Partially true
This advice would continue to make sense for Americans who already have dollars, but I wouldn't recommend making an effort to purchase with the intent of exchanging them on the ground. Collecting money via Western Union was convenient and good value, which I would recommend to anyone visiting from outside the US.
"Make sure you get the blue-dollar rate"
Partially true
The dramatic stabilisation of the peso by late 2024 means that this difference is nowhere near as significant as it was 12 months ago. At the time of writing, there was only a 10% difference between the official and blue rate. If you are only in the city for a short period you may not even have to grapple with this.
"Restaurant service is poor"
Partially true
I did see some evidence of this, especially in cheaper,  traditional restaurants. In comical fashion, drinks would not appear or the bill would never materialise. In more contemporary outlets, it was never a problem.
"It is a football mad city"
True
There is absolutely no doubt that this is as true as ever in 2024.

Where to stay

Similar to Almaty, Bishkek feels incredibly dispersed. Everything is fairly spread out with nowhere particularly acting like a traditional urban hub. I've struggled to actually locate meaningful neighbourhoods to refer to, with the two largest districts, 'Lenin' and 'Oktyabr', covering too much space to give any meaningful reference points.

If I had to give any rough guidance it would be to find somewhere south of Jibek Jolu Ave, north of the train station, and then be within commuting distance of wherever you may plan to work from.

Without a great deal of quality accommodation options on the market, you likely won't be able to be too picky with where you opt for. Thankfully, I don't think that level of precision is too required in the city.

Erkindik Ave
Recommended
Would avoid
It's not immediately obvious when looking on Google Maps, but just north of the main railway station is what is probably the nicest area in the city. You have a good selection of coffee shops and bars like White Night and No Name Bar, and it's not a far walk to the more commercial area of the city centre. Erkindik Ave itself is one of the classic tree-lined streets you'll find in Bishkek and a popular walking spot for locals in the evening.
Coworking space SABI
Ala Too Square
Recommended
Would avoid
Whilst it's unlikely you'd be staying in the immediate vicinity, this is what you'd class as perhaps the Trafalgar Square equivalent within Bishkek, albeit a much more sedate version. If you can walk to this point in 30 minutes from any direction, you are likely to be in the right neck of the woods.
OlolohausErkindik
Frunze Street
Recommended
Would avoid
I stayed on the far west side of Frunze Street at the 'Royal' apartment block. It's about a 30-minute walk into the centre and a similar length walk to the Ololo Haus Erkindik coworking space. From what I could see on Airbnb, this area seemed to have some of the most concentrated supply of Airbnbs in the city. There are some bars, coffee shops and restaurants dotted around, and it makes for a convenient place to stay on a short trip. Worth noting that this area has completely changed since the Google Street View photos were taken in 2015, so it looks completely unrecognisable to what you may see online.
OlolohausErkindik

Where to work

OlolohausErkindik
Top choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top location
🥗 On site cafe
🧍Community focused
⭐️ Quality fit out
🌳 Outdoor Space

The Ololo chain has 5 different outlets spread across Bishkek, with 'Ololo Haus Erkindik' being the closest to what you'd consider the city centre.

The site primarily houses a range of private offices, but it has around 12 hot-desking spaces spread across two areas on the ground floor of the building. Each desk has comfortable proper office chairs and provides adequate space.

There's complimentary coffee in the kitchen with some decent espresso, the air conditioning is powerful throughout the day, and the atmosphere is calm, professional and welcoming. The space was impeccably clean and well-maintained every day I was there and felt comfortably below capacity whilst maintaining enough day-to-day ambience.

The only drawback is there isn't much in the way of local amenities in the immediate area, with the nearest proper commercial area about a ten-minute walk from the property, which you can zip to on a scooter in 2 minutes.

A week cost £30 and gave you access to the space 24/7, with some people working there at weekends. I'd happily recommend it as a work base, and it's worth choosing accommodation within walking distance.

Learn more open_in_new
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Flexible access to shared workspace in hundreds of locations globally. Explore hundreds of global locations, whether you need office space in New York or a meeting room in London.
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Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for {$$$}.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.

Kyrgyzstan established permanent Digital Nomad status for foreign citizens in 2025, replacing its previous pilot project that ran from 2022-2024. The programme allows citizens from 61 eligible countries to live and work remotely in Kyrgyzstan, with an initial 60-day assignment followed by extensions of up to one year, renewable annually for up to 10 years.

Currently, there are no minimum income requirements for Digital Nomad status in Kyrgyzstan, though future requirements may include proof of self-employment or income above the country's subsistence level. Citizens from visa-free countries (including Kazakhstan, Russia, and Belarus) can stay up to 60 days, whilst those from visa-required countries (such as the USA, Germany, and Japan) must obtain a "DN" type visa.

Applications are processed within seven working days and can be submitted through Kyrgyzstan's official e-visa portal. The status provides significant benefits including exemption from compulsory residence registration, automatic personal identification number (PIN) issuance, the right to conduct business as an individual entrepreneur, and streamlined bank account opening procedures.

Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
Learn more open_in_new
To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of Jan 2025. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it! Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

  • A safe and secure city.Nothing raised any concern throughout the duration of my stay. There's continuous footfall on the streets late into the evenings, with it not uncommon to see kids playing out in the streets until way after the sun has set. I read some reports on foreigners getting targeted for muggings and pickpocketing close to some tourist sites and popular night time venues. However, having meandered around the streets at all hours, there was little evidence I could see that particular precautions should be taken.

Off work

Explore the Ala Archa National Park

If you are staying in the centre of Bishkek, this is an easily achievable day trip. Slightly less convenient than the equivalent option in Almaty, you are best off reaching the National Park by taxi or driving yourself, which should take around an hour and cost about £10 via Yandex.

I had rather low expectations in terms of what to expect from the park's infrastructure, but this was one of the most impressive and well-organised sites that I've visited.

Upon reaching the park, there is approximately a £2 entrance fee, payable by card at modern terminals with QR code turnstiles. Once inside, a small coach will take you up to the first set of trails and paths, with a further series of small golf buggy-style carts to ferry you further up to additional walking routes, all included as part of the entrance fee. At each of the small bus stops, there are small markets and coffee shops to pick up any goods you may need.

Once you have returned to the main entrance of the park, there are regular buses taking you back to the city centre, which are likely to be just as quick as waiting to call a taxi and cost only 50 som.

For specific route recommendations, take a look at the exercise section below.

Learn more open_in_new

Duration & season

Late June in Bishkek was hot. Daytime temperatures reached 37°C with cooler air and much-welcomed light winds characterising the evenings. While I didn't find the heat debilitating, unless you are really craving such temperatures, the shoulder months of May and September are likely to suit most visitors better.

A couple of evenings brought unpleasant mid-summer dust storms, which aren't uncommon at this time of year, along with unexpected periodic downpours that quickly cleared up. Even without gaining much altitude, mountain temperatures drop significantly, so outdoor exploration remains comfortable even when the city is becoming uncomfortable.

How long do you need in Bishkek? It's hard to say. Compared to neighbouring Almaty, I'd feel less comfortable recommending a full month. In general, there's less ambience around the city and not a great deal to really get particularly excited about. But I would have happily extended my one-week stay with better accommodation.

Most visitors appeared to use Bishkek as a springboard to kick-start a wider journey around the country, so allocating additional time to properly see the more rural parts of the country would have been something I'd have explored if time had permitted.

Food & drink

The No Name Bar
What felt like one of the most popular bars in the city, busy over the weekends with a surprisingly international crowd. Limited beer selection but plenty of cocktails and space outside with food served also. Open late until 02:00 over the weekends.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Riders Bar
If you want to make the most of a sunny evening, it's worth heading south out of the city to this bar which is situated on the edge of the 'Airport Pond' in Love Park. Casual bar with bean bags next to the water's edge with a kitchen serving burgers, hot dogs and other snacks. Bring cash as my Mastercard would not work in any of the card terminals.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Flask Coffee
Potentially the only speciality coffee outlet you will encounter in Bishkek. Part of the same chain which has a couple of outlets in Almaty. Has a spacious and air-conditioned room at the back which is ideal for working for a couple of hours on a nice day, with reliable WiFi and decent coffee.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
PIVO
Casual bar specialising in craft beers with 12 taps and a pizza oven churning out reasonable quality pizzas. Dark, intimate interior, friendly staff and a great selection of local brews to sample.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Chokos Bar
Small cocktail-orientated bar in a small courtyard next to 'Save The Ales'. The two appear to be interconnected, so you can bring drinks back and forth between them in the outdoor seating area. Good place to watch a hot afternoon drift into the evening with shaded tables and a food menu.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Bonjuk
Korean restaurant offering a range of hot and cold bibimbap dishes, as well as soups and fried chicken. Comparatively quite expensive by local standards but a nice interior and friendly, attentive staff.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Kukhnya
Modern, well-staffed cafeteria which is a great place to pick up an inexpensive meal for breakfast or dinner if going past. Expect to get a local main, side, salad and fruit juice for under £3. Nice place to try a range of local foods.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
SomeWhere Bistro
Rustic bar featuring live music over the weekends, decent burgers and a large outdoor space at the back. Under a ten minute walk from the Ololohaus Erkindik coworking space.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Exercise
Kara-Jygach Park
·
Run
Around a ten-minute drive from the centre of the city, the southern part of this lake has a running track around the lake's perimeter, and in the north towards 'Eldar Siygen Zher' the paths are better suited for trail running. Calm and secluded.
Great Chuy Canal
·
Run
If staying in the north of the city, this is a great place to run in the morning or in the evenings, with secluded paths running alongside the length of this canal which stretches from side to side. Given how inexpensive the taxis are, it's worth getting dropped off at one end and then running back along.
Ala-Archa National Park
·
Walk
There's several hikes you can do once in the national park. I headed up alongside the riverside path in the main valley for a mile or two, before looping back and heading up towards the Aksay Waterfall which isn't too demanding but a good workout if out all day in the sun. Some small shops to buy food and drinks near the bus station at each stop.
Alamedin Valley
·
Walk
Grab a Yandex from the centre of Bishkek to 'Teplye Klyuchi', which should take around an hour and cost about £10. From here you can take a 10km out-and-back loop which takes you through this incredible valley. No real serious climbs or elevation, with the path being mainly flat the entire way, with some gentle climbs on the east side. A must visit if in the city. Worth bringing some swimming equipment so that on the way back you can stop off at the thermal baths.

People

Within my first 24 hours in the city, I picked up on more international accents than throughout the entire month of my time in Almaty. Perhaps due to the nightlife being concentrated across a smaller number of venues, you are more likely to cross paths with fellow foreigners, but even when hiking in the mountains, I encountered a much wider variety of people than at any point in Kazakhstan.

The city's population features a similar split between native Kyrgyz and ethnic Russians, and in general, even though it is still definitely limited, English felt more widely spoken. Whilst its use is likely to be much more limited amongst older generations, I felt a marked improvement in the ability to communicate in restaurants and cafés and within the coworking space.

Perhaps as a result of this, I felt a much warmer reception from the Kyrgyz people. I had several people ask with warm curiosity about where I was from and how long I was intending to stay in the country, which on reflection didn't happen once throughout the preceding month. There was still a little distance from the men, but perhaps without the same level of hostility as you often felt over the border.

With such a nascent remote work reputation, you're more likely to find Western tourists in Bishkek arriving to explore the rest of Kyrgyzstan than remote workers in the coworking spaces. There's a small expat community in the city, mainly working for NGOs based there.

Exercise

Kara-Jygach Park
Around a ten-minute drive from the centre of the city, the southern part of this lake has a running track around the lake's perimeter, and in the north towards 'Eldar Siygen Zher' the paths are better suited for trail running. Calm and secluded.
keyboard_arrow_down
Great Chuy Canal
If staying in the north of the city, this is a great place to run in the morning or in the evenings, with secluded paths running alongside the length of this canal which stretches from side to side. Given how inexpensive the taxis are, it's worth getting dropped off at one end and then running back along.
keyboard_arrow_down
Ala-Archa National Park
There's several hikes you can do once in the national park. I headed up alongside the riverside path in the main valley for a mile or two, before looping back and heading up towards the Aksay Waterfall which isn't too demanding but a good workout if out all day in the sun. Some small shops to buy food and drinks near the bus station at each stop.
keyboard_arrow_down
Alamedin Valley
Grab a Yandex from the centre of Bishkek to 'Teplye Klyuchi', which should take around an hour and cost about £10. From here you can take a 10km out-and-back loop which takes you through this incredible valley. No real serious climbs or elevation, with the path being mainly flat the entire way, with some gentle climbs on the east side. A must visit if in the city. Worth bringing some swimming equipment so that on the way back you can stop off at the thermal baths.
keyboard_arrow_down
Alamedin Valley
Grab a Yandex from the centre of Bishkek to 'Teplye Klyuchi', which should take around an hour and cost about £10. From here you can take a 10km out-and-back loop which takes you through this incredible valley. No real serious climbs or elevation, with the path being mainly flat the entire way, with some gentle climbs on the east side. A must visit if in the city. Worth bringing some swimming equipment so that on the way back you can stop off at the thermal baths.
Ala-Archa National Park
There's several hikes you can do once in the national park. I headed up alongside the riverside path in the main valley for a mile or two, before looping back and heading up towards the Aksay Waterfall which isn't too demanding but a good workout if out all day in the sun. Some small shops to buy food and drinks near the bus station at each stop.
Great Chuy Canal
If staying in the north of the city, this is a great place to run in the morning or in the evenings, with secluded paths running alongside the length of this canal which stretches from side to side. Given how inexpensive the taxis are, it's worth getting dropped off at one end and then running back along.
Kara-Jygach Park
Around a ten-minute drive from the centre of the city, the southern part of this lake has a running track around the lake's perimeter, and in the north towards 'Eldar Siygen Zher' the paths are better suited for trail running. Calm and secluded.

Verdict

Positives
  • An incredibly relaxed and manageable city.If you need some headspace, some calm, some detachment from the pressures of living in a major city, Bishkek may be just what you are looking for. There’s an air of calm that drifts through the cities wide, often quiet arterial roads unlike any other capital city I can recall visiting. Worth noting that that there is quite poor traffic when entering and leaving the city itself, especially around rush hours.
  • Reliably warm summer weather.Whilst some days felt close to unbearable when it reached the high 30s, most days had close to ideal weather, with long, warm evenings to explore the city on foot. The city feels well set up for these temperatures with plenty of outdoor bars and restaurants to make the most of it and generally strong AC in cafés and restaurants.
  • Excellent day-to-day value.Bishkek had some of the most affordable food I can recall eating outside of Southeast Asia. Fresh, local food is priced incredibly low by international standards, and in addition, international options are also generally very reasonable. Bars and coffee shops are well below what you would expect in Europe.
  • A warmer welcome than in Kazakhstan.Even within 12 hours of being in Bishkek, I felt a notably warmer reception from the Kyrgyz population than throughout much of my time in Almaty. Small token interactions like staff in a restaurant asking where you are from, or what brought you to the city, happened with much greater regularity and culminated in a much warmer sentiment than the often ever-so-mild hostility detectable next door.
  • More visible local heritage.Walking around Bishkek you felt like you observed some more traditional cultural elements than perhaps in Almaty. You will see men of all ages still proudly sporting the distinctive 'Ak-Kalpak' hats going about their daily business and elderly women tend to dress more conservatively with perhaps less visible contemporary influences.
  • A gateway to the rest of the country.Kyrgyzstan is increasing in popularity as a destination to explore some spectacular outdoor sights. You are well based in Bishkek to head up to the large Issyk-Kul lake some three hours to the east, the Sary-Chelek Biosphere Reserve in the west with picturesque alpine lakes and forests, and the Pamir-Alai Mountain Range on the southern border with Tajikistan. I failed to get out of Bishkek in the short time I was there, but there's clearly much to explore across the country.
Negatives
  • Not a lively place.There's no denying that it's a somewhat quiet and underwhelming city. Everything feels like it's moving about 25% slower in Bishkek, which is not inherently a bad thing, but doesn't make for a compelling place to travel halfway around the world for in isolation.
  • Infrastructure is noticeably worse than in central Almaty.Half the city feels like it's currently being dug up, as there appears to be a real active effort to upgrade much of the city's infrastructure. However, this means large portions feel like a building site with no real detectable urgency for getting the work finished. There's particularly high disruption currently around Chuy Avenue. Away from the construction, you'll frequently encounter pavements and roads that look like they were once laid in the 1950s and not touched since. Whilst Almaty's metro only has a single line and serves a small proportion of the city, its existence still provides a way of traversing its urban core, with nothing akin in Bishkek.
  • An underwhelming choice of accommodation.Good quality, modern one-bedroom apartments are in short supply in Bishkek, at least via conventional short-term rental sites like Airbnb, so finding a place you'd be excited about spending a month or longer there may be challenging.
  • Fewer higher-end options than Almaty.Bishkek feels like it's missing an equivalent of the ABR group, which seems to have led the way in higher-end, western dining and leisure venues that have become popular across the city. This chain is probably the epitome of corporate gentrification, but they do appear to have helped raise the bar in terms of standards within the city. The speciality coffee scene is very much still in its infancy, with only a couple of truly enticing options.
  • Getting to the mountains is a little more inconvenient than in Almaty.Being able to explore the countryside is a little more difficult than in its neighbouring city, where you can begin trails immediately on the perimeter of the city. With a taxi ride of close to an hour, it's likely to only be a weekend excursion rather than something you can squeeze into the midweek. The extra distance keeps them not as firmly within the cityscape, often covered by some haze and clouds throughout the day.
  • Often horrendous air quality.In a similar vein to Almaty, Bishkek suffers from incredibly poor air quality, heightened during the winter months due to the pervasiveness of coal burning. During the peak of summer it wasn't anything I could personally detect and didn't struggle to do any strenuous exercise outside.
Tips
  • Google Maps Street View almost dangerously out of date.Much of the city has undergone significant transformation since most of the photography was taken in 2015. Don't rely on street map views for any up-to-date imagery if attempting to orientate yourself.
  • Head to 'Sport City' if looking for a gym.It's far bigger than it looks on the rather underwhelming listing on Google Maps, has a large range of quality equipment and costs only 300 som for a day pass. Bring a pair of clean shoes as they are rather pedantic about entrance otherwise.
  • Carry some cash.Card availability was generally strong across the city, but I did have repeat issues using a UK Monzo debit Mastercard, specifically with the BakaiBank terminals, which can leave you in a bit of a bad position.
  • ATM fees are generally low.I used a range of ATMs with fees ranging from somewhere between 150-250 som.
  • Physical SIM cards are available in arrivals at the airport.Prices on data are significantly cheaper than what you may find with eSIM providers, with the stands appearing to be open 24 hours a day. If travelling around the region, Mobimatter offers a competitively priced 20GB Central Asia package for $16.99, which is much better value than what you may find with Airalo.
  • Yandex scooters can be useful tools.If you are reliant solely on foot, many journeys across Bishkek are likely to feel monotonous after a while. The bright yellow electric scooters make navigating multitudes easier, with the city blessed with large, comfortable sidewalks—that is, until you run into one which has not been repaved since last century.
  • I could happily suggest 'Blackrock Barbershop' if looking for a trim.Based in the centre of the city, the barbers spoke good English and provided attentive cuts for around £10. I could highly recommend the services of 'Eddie'!‍
  • 2GIS is the primary map app within the city.Whilst Google Maps is reliable, it contains some missing data compared to the competition. Most locals will use 2GIS as their primary listings and navigation source, which at the time of writing was geoblocked from the nation's app store, at least with iOS. You can use the web version but it can be frustrating to use with Russian being the primary language.‍
  • Tipping is generally handled by a 10% surcharge.This is generally added to your bill when eating in at mid-range restaurants and above. Nothing greater than this is generally required.
  • If you're curious about which language to communicate in, Russian appeared your best bet.Functioning as the main language of inter-ethnic communication, it is spoken almost universally across the city. Compared to Almaty, anecdotally there felt more use of Kyrgyz than Kazakh from what my untrained ears could detect. Kyrgyz is likely to become much more dominant the further away you are from urban areas.
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These large tree-lined parks characterise much of the inner city, connecting various districts to one another and are characteristic of intentional Soviet planning. Bishkek is known as the greenest city in Central Asia, with more trees per capita than any other.
A view looking east across Frunze Street. Much of the city still feels under construction, with new residential apartments springing up, albeit with seemingly little urgency applied in actually completing them.
Orto Say Bazaar is worth a visit over a weekend, offering fresh fruits and produce and a wealth of bakeries to sample local cuisine. The market started operating after the collapse of the Soviet Union during Kyrgyzstan's transition to a market economy, expanding in the 1990s to become one of the main market centres in Bishkek.
Ala Archa National Park is particularly well run. Once you arrive at the main entrance of the site, there are a number of buses to take you around to the starts of various trails, all included as part of your entrance price.

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