Ankara
Perpetually living in the shadow of Istanbul, but well worth a visit.
The often overlooked capital city of Turkey, is a blend of history, culture, and modernity.
Known for its architectural wonders like the Atatürk Mausoleum and the ancient Roman Temple of Augustus, Ankara anchors the countries political, administrative, and cultural spheres.
Exceeded my expectations on every level and would definitely return for another stay. If already in Turkey, worth a couple of nights to explore on holiday.
Exceeded my expectations on every level and would definitely return for another stay. If already in Turkey, worth a couple of nights to explore on holiday.
Exceeded my expectations on every level and would definitely return for another stay. If already in Turkey, worth a couple of nights to explore on holiday.
Exceeded my expectations on every level and would definitely return for another stay. If already in Turkey, worth a couple of nights to explore on holiday.
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Summary
Having visited several cities on Turkey's southern coast, I made my way up inland, getting the bus from Adana. Having been dissuaded from anyone I had ever spoken to about visiting Ankara on the basis of it being an incredibly boring city, I was curious to see just how dull a metropolis of over 5 million people could be.
Accommodation
Airbnb always seems to be a bit hit and miss throughout the country and my experience in Ankara was no different. Depending on how long you're staying, you may want to consider a hotel for ease of convenience where the prices seem to be pretty competitive. I spent a week in the Kahya Otel Ankara which was a great place to explore the city from.
Places to work
There's a strong selection of places to work from across the city with national chain Workinton operating in several places. I personally loved the time i spent at Ancowork which I've written about beneath.
Value
Ankara was great value for both eating out with prices similar to those in Istanbul and the rest of the country for food, drink and coffees.
Working hours
Turkey adheres to GMT+2 in summer, reverting to GMT+3 in winter due to the absence of daylight saving time practices.
🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
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Where to stay
Ankara is an enormous city and whilst it is moderately well connected with the metro, you'd be best off staying in one of the more lively hubs.
Tunalı
Bahçelievler
Altındağ
Where to work
Ancowork
Based around a ten minute walk from bustling hub of Tunali, Ancowork provides a great base to work from, with a large open plan coworking space on the ground floor and meeting rooms available for calls below.
There's a number of great coffee shops within 5 minutes walk from the office with the only downside being a slightly aggressive hill leading up to it.
There didn't appear to be any fixed member of staff working there when I arrived, so if planning to visit i would enquire ahead to make sure they are present.
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Remote work visa
If staying for a prolonged period, you may want to consider a dedicated visa for this destination.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
Check your government website for details of how to obtain a tourist visa.
Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.
Safety
Off-work
Visit Anıtkabir
Visiting Atatürk's final resting place Anıtkabir, is a must when in the capital. Brushing up on Turkey's last century of history beforehand adds depth to the experience and if you have spent any period of time in Turkey prior, you are likely to have seen his face dotted around the country. I would suggest getting there early on the weekend to beat any potential queues on arrival.
Eat at an Aspava
This style of Turkish restaurant appeared to be particularly popular in Ankara, with an enormous selection of meats, salads, chips and dips provided with each meal. Be prepared to eat a lot.
Walk through ABB-Dikmen Vadisi Parkı
Beautiful city park set in the Dikmen valley. Particularly impressive in Autumn as the valley inherits a autunumal hues from the falling leaves.
Walk up to Ankara Castle
Situated just north of the centre, Ankara Castle and the surrounding area provide a glimpse into the cities historic past, with a museum at the top and panoramic views of the city.
Walk through Bahçelievler
Situated next to Anıtkabir, this neighbourhood is definitely worth a stroll around, home to an array of coffee shops, bars and dining options.
Duration & season
Ankara has a radically different climate to the cities on the southern coast. November felt especially Autumnal with plenty of dry, clear and slightly chilly days. With no beach and sea access, you'd struggle to make a compelling argument on choosing it over other cities throughout the summer months, but I would certainly return again at that time of year.
Food & drink
People
You're less likely to find an international remote community in Ankara compared to that in Istanbul or Antalya with only few tourists passing by either. Like with the rest ofTurkey, I found the local people to be particularly warm and engaging.
Exercise
Ankara Castle Walk
Dikmen Valley
Verdict
Positives
- Great connections to Istanbul and the rest of the country.The high speed train line is a great alternative to flying. The trains are modern, well run and comfortable.
- Beautiful city parks.The Dikmen Valley is a spectacular area which looked incredible with the autumnal leaves during November.
- Less chaotic than Istanbul.If you are looking for somewhere not quite as manic, Ankara may do the job.
- A busy working city.I found there was a great buzz in Ankara, only comparable with Istanbul and Izmir in the other cities in the country I've visited.
Negatives
- It's an enormous city.Traffic can be bad during rush hours so plan your journeys accordingly.
- It is less memorable than Istanbul.If you had to choose between the two, you would opt for Istanbul everytime. That being said, if you are in the country for a while, it's well worth adding into an itinerary.
Tips
- Book in advance for the high speed rail line.The morning and evening trains to Istanbul get sold out rapidly. If planning to use the train, book as much in advance as you can.
- Cappadocia can be done over a weekend.A three hour drive from the centre of Ankara.
- If you don't like hills, avoid Çankaya.Be prepared to be constantly going up or down.
- Eid al-Adha is a major holiday usually around June.Expect many offices to be closed during this time in a similar manner to Christmas in the UK.
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