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Some of these trips are now more than 3 years old. If you notice any inaccuracies, or a coffee shop has sadly closed down, please get in touch.
Intro
Should you go?
Summary
Where to stay
Where to work
Remote work visa
Safety
Off work
Duration & season
Food & drink
People
Exercise
Verdict

Ankara

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Perpetually living in the shadow of Istanbul, but well worth a visit.

The often overlooked capital city of Turkey, is a blend of history, culture, and modernity.

Known for its architectural wonders like the Atatürk Mausoleum and the ancient Roman Temple of Augustus, Ankara anchors the countries political, administrative, and cultural spheres.

Turkey
Nov 2022
Turkish Lira (TRY)
2 weeks

ESB

5.6 Million

Should you go?

Highly recommended.

Highly recommended.

Highly recommended.

Highly recommended.

Exceeded my expectations on every level and would definitely return for another stay. If already in Turkey, worth a couple of nights to explore on holiday.

💰 Great value
🧳 Would like to return

Summary

Having visited several cities on Turkey's southern coast, I made my way up inland, getting the bus from Adana. Having been dissuaded from anyone I had ever spoken to about visiting Ankara on the basis of it being an incredibly boring city, I was curious to see just how dull a metropolis of over 5 million people could be.

75
72
82
65
Total:
Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
65
%
info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.

Airbnb always seems to be a bit hit and miss throughout the country and my experience in Ankara was no different. Depending on how long you're staying, you may want to consider a hotel for ease of convenience where the prices seem to be pretty competitive. I spent a week in the Kahya Otel Ankara which was a great place to explore the city from.

Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
75
%

There's a strong selection of places to work from across the city with national chain Workinton operating in several places. I personally loved the time i spent at Ancowork which I've written about beneath.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
82
%

Ankara was great value for both eating out with prices similar to those in Istanbul and the rest of the country for food, drink and coffees.

info
The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
Read more
Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
72
%

From everything I heard about Ankara before visiting, I was expecting it to have the ambience of a graveyard. I was pleasantly surprised. While it will always fall short compared to Istanbul, I found the area around Çankaya to be a great place to stay—lively and engaging throughout the day, with lots to explore for food, coffee and nightlife. There’s comfortably enough to keep you entertained for a month

Working hours

Turkey adheres to GMT+2 in summer, reverting to GMT+3 in winter due to the absence of daylight saving time practices.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
Read article
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
Do you need to speak Portugese?
After spending 10 weeks speaking (limited) Spanish across the rest of the continent, I struggled arriving in Brazil.

While I was far from conversational in Spanish, I quickly realised when I stepped out of the airport my vocabulary didn't extend a single word beyond 'Obrigado!'.
‍
In general, English is generally spoken incredibly sparsely. The most flowing interaction I had ended up being with an Uber driver where we periodically shouted out the names of Brazilian footballers playing in the English Premier League.

You can scrape by for a couple of weeks, but if you're planning on staying longer, I'd 100% recommend learning some basics to get the most out of the experience.
Republic Day celebrations outside of a kebab shop in Çankaya.
Republic Day celebrations outside of a kebab shop in Çankaya.
Autumn time in Dikmen Valley park. Perfect and moderately flat location for running in the centre.
Autumn time in Dikmen Valley park. Perfect and moderately flat location for running in the centre.
🔎
November 2024 Fact Check
Given the instability in Argentina over the past few years, I found that most advice on key topics, even if written within the last 12 months, bordered on being dangerously outdated.

I have attempted to summarise some of the most misleading points I encountered.
"Nowhere accepts card"
Incorrect
Card availability is now excellent across the city. Even if you are purchasing a single empanada, bananas from a greengrocer, or buying cans of beer off a man in the street before a football match. Some businesses may offer a 10% discount if you use cash, or charge a small surcharge for card payments.
"It's difficult to get a SUBE card"
Incorrect
This was true in recent years, as there had been a shortage of the cards across the city due to a lack of the plastics needed to create the card. I had no problems going to the nearest off-licence and getting a card on my first attempt. It's worth asking your Airbnb host who may have a spare.
"Buenos Aires is cheap"
Incorrect
The biggest misconception that may still linger, even if you are reading articles from 2023. If planning on eating out heavily, then expect European prices or even higher on more imported day-to-day goods. Eating out aside, day-to-day expenses are still good value by global measures.
"Bring dollars with you"
Partially true
This advice would continue to make sense for Americans who already have dollars, but I wouldn't recommend making an effort to purchase with the intent of exchanging them on the ground. Collecting money via Western Union was convenient and good value, which I would recommend to anyone visiting from outside the US.
"Make sure you get the blue-dollar rate"
Partially true
The dramatic stabilisation of the peso by late 2024 means that this difference is nowhere near as significant as it was 12 months ago. At the time of writing, there was only a 10% difference between the official and blue rate. If you are only in the city for a short period you may not even have to grapple with this.
"Restaurant service is poor"
Partially true
I did see some evidence of this, especially in cheaper,  traditional restaurants. In comical fashion, drinks would not appear or the bill would never materialise. In more contemporary outlets, it was never a problem.
"It is a football mad city"
True
There is absolutely no doubt that this is as true as ever in 2024.

Where to stay

Ankara is an enormous city and whilst it is moderately well connected with the metro, you'd be best off staying in one of the more lively hubs.

Tunalı
Recommended
Would avoid
What felt to me as the real heart of the city, a busy commercial hub with lots of great options for food and drink.
Bahçelievler
Recommended
Would avoid
A neighbourhood with more of a residential feel, I would strongly consider staying in Bahçelievler on a future visit. Lots of options for food and drink.
Altındağ
Recommended
Would avoid
The northern half of the city, while not inherently bad, lacks the vibrancy found in Çankaya.

Where to work

Ancowork
Top choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top location
🥗 On site cafe
🧍Community focused
⭐️ Quality fit out
🌳 Outdoor Space

Based around a ten minute walk from bustling hub of Tunali, Ancowork provides a great base to work from, with a large open plan coworking space on the ground floor and meeting rooms available for calls below.

There's a number of great coffee shops within 5 minutes walk from the office with the only downside being a slightly aggressive hill leading up to it.

There didn't appear to be any fixed member of staff working there when I arrived, so if planning to visit i would enquire ahead to make sure they are present.

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Flexible access to shared workspace in hundreds of locations globally. Explore hundreds of global locations, whether you need office space in New York or a meeting room in London.
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Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for {$$$}.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.
Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
Learn more open_in_new
To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of Jan 2025. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it! Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

Off work

Visit Anıtkabir

Visiting Atatürk's final resting place Anıtkabir, is a must when in the capital. Brushing up on Turkey's last century of history beforehand adds depth to the experience and if you have spent any period of time in Turkey prior, you are likely to have seen his face dotted around the country. I would suggest getting there early on the weekend to beat any potential queues on arrival.

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Duration & season

Ankara has a radically different climate to the cities on the southern coast. November felt especially Autumnal with plenty of dry, clear and slightly chilly days. With no beach and sea access, you'd struggle to make a compelling argument on choosing it over other cities throughout the summer months, but I would certainly return again at that time of year.

Food & drink

Korelee
Çankaya
Impressively good Korean food, only issue is that it everynight without fail the que was 50 deep by 19:00. Try at lunch.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Meşhur Gülçimen Aspava ESAT
Çankaya
I developed a real affinity to the Aspava Restaurant and this was my favourite. Huge portions and great quality food,.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Rubber Soul Coffee
Çankaya
Great coffee served from super friendly staff. Short walk from the bustle of Çankaya.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Minister Pub
Çankaya
Large sports bar, perfect for watching football. Recommend to book ahead if going on the weekend.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Pilavcı Bekir Usta
Çankaya
No-frills Pilaf restaurant. Fresh Ayran and generous portions.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Paper Roasting Coffee
Çankaya
Comfortable interiors, great quality speciality coffee and a variety of sweet and savoury snacks.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Exercise
Ankara Castle Walk
·
Walk
If you're staying in the centre, the castle is easily walkable within a morning, with the summit providing some great views over the entire city.
Dikmen Valley
·
Walk
Beautifully landscaped valley situated to the south of the city centre. Ideal for runs if staying nearby. Be prepared to go up and down a lot.

People

You're less likely to find an international remote community in Ankara compared to that in Istanbul or Antalya with only few tourists passing by either. Like with the rest ofTurkey, I found the local people to be particularly warm and engaging.

Exercise

Ankara Castle Walk
If you're staying in the centre, the castle is easily walkable within a morning, with the summit providing some great views over the entire city.
keyboard_arrow_down
Dikmen Valley
Beautifully landscaped valley situated to the south of the city centre. Ideal for runs if staying nearby. Be prepared to go up and down a lot.
keyboard_arrow_down
Ankara Castle Walk
If you're staying in the centre, the castle is easily walkable within a morning, with the summit providing some great views over the entire city.
Dikmen Valley
Beautifully landscaped valley situated to the south of the city centre. Ideal for runs if staying nearby. Be prepared to go up and down a lot.

Verdict

Positives
  • Great connections to Istanbul and the rest of the country.The high speed train line is a great alternative to flying. The trains are modern, well run and comfortable.
  • Beautiful city parks.The Dikmen Valley is a spectacular area which looked incredible with the autumnal leaves during November.
  • Less chaotic than Istanbul.If you are looking for somewhere not quite as manic, Ankara may do the job.
  • A busy working city.I found there was a great buzz in Ankara, only comparable with Istanbul and Izmir in the other cities in the country I've visited.
Negatives
  • It's an enormous city.Traffic can be bad during rush hours so plan your journeys accordingly.
  • It is less memorable than Istanbul.If you had to choose between the two, you would opt for Istanbul everytime. That being said, if you are in the country for a while, it's well worth adding into an itinerary.
Tips
  • Book in advance for the high speed rail line.The morning and evening trains to Istanbul get sold out rapidly. If planning to use the train, book as much in advance as you can.
  • Cappadocia can be done over a weekend.A three hour drive from the centre of Ankara.
  • If you don't like hills, avoid Çankaya.Be prepared to be constantly going up or down.
  • Eid al-Adha is a major holiday usually around June.Expect many offices to be closed during this time in a similar manner to Christmas in the UK.
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All information presented in these articles was created to the best of my knowledge at the time of publication. Some links may take you to affiliate pages for services recommended where I may be entitled to a financial reward should you decide to make use of the services. Cookies are used to track the performance of the website and provide analytics on what's working and what's not. Thanks for reading ☕️
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